Moor Hall's Michelin-starred Mark Birchall on the Lancashire food scene and his go-to comfort food

One of the world's most celebrated chefs is a Lancashire lad, and he's very keen to fly the red rose flag.

Mark Birchall, who grew up in Chorley, and went to Runshaw College, is Chef Patron at two Michelin-starred Moor Hall in Aughton, and was recently crowned ‘Best Chef in the UK’, winning the Chefs’ Chef of the Year award at the AA Hospitality Awards. 

Read more here about 'world class' Moor Hall

Last week he featured in an emotional episode of the BBC's Hairy Biker's Go West, in which Dave Myers celebrated the produce and producers of his home county. Sadly Dave died on February 28, just days after the episode was aired.

Dave's final words on the homecoming episode reflected upon the change in the food scene in Lancashire. He said: "It's so nice how things have moved on in Lancashire, how things have grown, and how people are beginning to appreciate what they've got."

"Thirty years ago there wasn't much kicking about"

Mark agrees. He said: "The Lancashire food scene is getting stonger and stronger, without a doubt. Thirty years ago there wasn't much kicking about, really. There was Paul Heathcote and Nigel Haworth, and that was about it. The produce has always been good though, it's just been that supermarkets have changed people's perceptions of what's available, offering food that's out of season for the UK. I do think that now though, we're in a better position to shop more locally."

Mark and his team try to use 'hyper-seasonal' ingredients in their dishes, many of which are grown on-site in Moor Hall's grounds. With spring just around the corner, Mark said he's looking forward to getting into growing season again. He said: "You can't beat the sun in your face. April/May to September are the peak months, and the produce is unbelievable. But it's not always easy, it's not just four seasons you're contending with. You can go from sideways rain to double digits and back to frost in a matter of days."

Get the latest headlines, straight to your inbox, with The LEP’s free emails Mark believes the message about seasonal foods is "slowly" getting through to consumers, but says he's noticed more people are concerned over whether food is organic. He said: "We could go down the organic route in the restaurants, but we don't. You don't have to be organic to be an amazing product. The North West is unbelieveable for lamb, beef and fish and vegetables."

Mark says Moor Hall and The Barn "start at the doorstep and work out" in terms of sourcing ingredients, but insists this isn't just a cause of shopping locally, but because they are "geniunely world-class".

Stand-out product

So, which is the stand-out Lancashire product for Mark? He struggles a little with this question, before deciding on Mrs Kirkham's Cheeses. He said: "There's so many good producers, but Mrs Kirkham's, they're genuinely world-class, you can't beat them."

Mrs Kirkhams has been running at Beesley Farm, Goosnargh, for more than 70 years. The business is now run by Ruth and John Kirkhams son Graham with the help of his partner Kellie, and sons Shaun and Mike

This is what Moor Hall's new Garden Rooms will look like

Moor Hall's team now make their own cheeses, yogurts and butter on site, and have their own butchery and charcutery. This year, they will also be expanding their residential offerings, with seven Garden Rooms to be built in the woodland. The first five will be ready from June, and are set to go on offer next week.

Here's how to hack a 'cheap' Michelin-starred meal according to the Michelin Guide

"Everyone thinks we're full all the time, but it's not true"

Mark said: "Everyone thinks we're full all the time, but it's not true. Everyone wants Saturday night, but we often have availability at lunchtime or at the beginning of the week. The best thing to do is to ring up and check or go online."

Comfort food

And what is the go-to comfort food for Mark, when he isn't at work? He said: "I try not to eat when I get in late from work, but if I did, it would probably be toast. And when I'm not working on a Monday or Tuesday, I'll probably make something like roast chicken, just keeping it simple."